Japan

After nearly a month in Japan, I've finally got the chance to write down and share some of the thoughts from my first month here. This not even close to all of the incredible and interesting experiences I've had so far, but I hope to share those in separate posts in the coming weeks. Here's the highlights of my first 29 days in a form similar to a Q&A!

Why Japan?

Fully explaining this requires its own post, but the short version is as follows: on a whim, I decided to enroll in Japanese 101 the day before my first day of university. Even though it was at times my most challenging class, I stuck to it and found a way to use my Japanese while staying on track with my ultimate goal of pursuing an MPP in International Relations. Now, I'm with the Japanese Exchange Teaching (JET) program teaching English in three elementary schools in Niigata prefecture. I arrived to Tokyo August 5th and to Niigata prefecture on the 9th (after orientation). My first day at school was this past Monday, August 27th!

What are you doing?

On a daily basis, I get up, tuck my futon away into the closet of my tatami apartment, drive my tiny EK-Wagon named 「フロゾン」 to school on the left side of the road, and co-teach English classes. For the first couple weeks this is mainly me explaining my background, sharing a few things about North Carolina, and playing some folk music on my guitar. Although I've played and performed for 10 years now, I think this is the most I have ever played for an audience. In case you're curious, this is the song I've played dozens of times now, but since they can't understand the lyrics I've made it a bit more cheerful.

The name of my city, Gosen, in Japanese

I've quickly learned the 35/hrs a week in my contract is actually a very funny joke and thus have not had much free time outside of work, errands, cooking and exercise. I hope to flush out this section a bit more once I get more into the swing of things.

Wait... car? Apartment? What's your living situation?

Since I have a new position and thus have no predecessor as is typical for JET participants, I arrived to an empty tatami-style apartment in the oldest building in town. It quite literally did not have anything in it (not even toilet paper!) from the previous inhabitant, so I have been busy buying pans and towels and all sorts of things you never realized you need starting from scratch. Additionally, the building itself has very little insulation, meaning temperatures in the 90s (mid- to high-30s in celsius) in my apartment (and freezing temperatures to come in Winter). After almost three full weeks of nearly endless trips to the ¥100 store, I have a pretty comfortable arrangement, including two fans and and AC unit pointed at me at all times.

The car is as typically Japanese as they come. Left-hand drive, box-like, motorcycle-sized engine and quite literally the smallest possible car where I can fit my knees under the steering wheel. I am sure it is just as funny watching me climb in and out of the car as you are imagining. Unfortunately, the car is essential to my work and my days of high-horsedly walking everywhere are finished. 

Fresh, pre-made meals like this will usually run you about $4 US or less

Accurate depiction of me driving

How's Japan?

It's amazing. I will go into more depth about expectations versus reality very soon, but for now I can say it is everything it is said to be. Here's a quick bullet journaling:

• The sushi is delicious and far cheaper
• Doorways are lower and I hit my head a lot
• Anime, manga and karaoke are as wildly popular as they seem
• 7eleven is a gift from the Gods
• Cash is used almost exclusively
• People do flash their blinkers as a thank-you for merging while driving
• Chopsticks are dominant and napkins are nonexistant
• Sitting on the floor and no shoes at restaurants is very common
• Respect and kindness are unparalleled
• I have to go to the plus-sized store for pants and shoes
• Fruits are a delicacy 

Now I don't live in Tokyo, so urban Japan is not something I see often. Rural Japan, referred to as the 'inaka' 「田舎」has its own completely different societal structure in countless ways. Again, this is something I plan on flushing out soon!

How's school?

Ahh, back to grade school. I have been lucky enough to receive an exceptionally hospitable welcome at every school so far. From 'oohs' and 'aahs' at my fumbling Japanese self-introductions to a school of 500 singing me happy birthday, it has been heartwarming and exciting. The school style is also completely different in a way I really enjoy. Some differences I've noted include:

• Again, shoes off (bring some indoor shoes instead)
• Very open rooms and bright hallways
• Eating lunch with the students in their room (self-served and cleaned)
• Students come to the staff room to get teachers (happens to me more as an assistant teacher)
• A lot of fun and games
• Classes usually stay together for years, so the atmosphere changes wildly by class
• Tons of calming music and announcements made over the speakers
• Greeting at the start and end of class
• Teeth brushing after lunch

Out of respect for my students and co-workers, I will almost certainly not have many pictures from my time here, but I hope to share these experiences in other ways.

Similarities to the Netherlands: canals, clean water, known for Tulips, flat

Fireworks on my second weekend

What have you learned so far?

Luckily, I religiously tracked my study habits and results over the summer, so I can give a bit of quantitative data here. On average, I have been learning about a month's worth of Japanese every week here based upon my results before coming to Japan. One of my favorite things to study are the various Japanese characters. Around the time I graduated from UNC, I knew approximately 850 of them. Now, I know almost 1500. Here are some charts with nice colors and a satisfying upward trend.

Total characters recognized at all confidence levels (few weeks old)

Learning rate over time

My speaking and listening comprehension have skyrocketed, albeit to a fairly intermediate level. I have good confidence navigating any common situation in Japan now, though more complicated interactions are still a struggle (I'll explain your order at a restaurant but couldn't get you out of a ticket). With every milestone my decision to move here seems more correct and my heart more full.

The more of the language I learn, the more of the culture I gain access to. Although I am far from understanding the nuance of most situations, the things I have learned so far have been extremely interesting and have changed my frame of mind in a number of situations. In my best impersonation of a broken record, I hope to expand on this in the coming weeks. Sayonara!